A Gringo's Gastronomic Odyssey in Yongzhou: From Blood Duck to Dong'an Chicken and Beyond!

Howdy, folks! Mark here, your trusty American backpacker, back with another tale from the culinary corners of Asia. This time, my wanderlust led me to Yongzhou, China – a city that seamlessly blends rich history with even richer flavors. Get ready, because this isn't just a travelogue; it's a full-blown gastronomic adventure! Prepare your taste buds for an explosion of sensations!

Yongzhou: Where History Whispers and Your Stomach Roars

Yongzhou, a city with a past as captivating as its present, boasts several names. It was once known as Lingling, a moniker that evokes images of ancient grandeur. It’s also called Xiaoxiang, a name steeped in romantic tragedy, referencing the legendary sisters Ehuang and Nvying, who embarked on a heartbreaking journey across vast distances in search of their lost husband. This poignant tale of loyalty and loss is woven into the very fabric of Yongzhou's identity. Exploring Lingling Ancient City, with its ancient buildings and winding streets, I felt the weight of this history, a tangible connection to centuries past. Even the seemingly simple Xiakedu Floating Bridge, a structure comprised of numerous small boats bobbing gently on the water, whispers tales of the renowned Ming Dynasty traveler, Xu Xiake, who famously crossed this very river.

Liu Zongyuan: Exile, Inspiration, and the Birth of Literary Masterpieces

But it's Yongzhou's association with Liu Zongyuan, a towering figure among the Eight Great Masters of the Tang and Song Dynasties, that truly captivates. This brilliant mind, unjustly exiled for ten years due to his involvement in the reformist "Two Kings and Eight Sima" movement, found solace and inspiration in this seemingly remote location. His forced exile, a period of hardship and isolation, inadvertently gifted the world with a treasure trove of literary masterpieces. Imagine the irony: a political setback that transformed into a creative explosion!

I visited the Liuzi Temple, a tranquil sanctuary built to honor his memory, feeling a profound connection to this literary giant. His most famous works, born from this period of exile, paint vivid pictures of Yongzhou’s landscapes and the people who inhabited them. His sharp wit and social commentary, particularly evident in works such as "Snake Catcher" – a stinging critique of oppressive taxation – reveal a man who used his pen as a weapon against injustice, even in the face of adversity. It's a story of resilience, and the temple stands as a testament to the power of the human spirit.

The Eight Scenic Spots of Yongzhou: Yuxi Snow View and Poetic Loneliness

Yongzhou proudly boasts eight iconic scenic spots, each possessing its own unique charm and historical significance. I chose to visit Yuxi Snow View, a location made famous not by the sheer magnificence of its natural beauty (although the setting is undeniably picturesque), but by the haunting poetry it inspired in Liu Zongyuan himself. His famous four-line poem, born from a moment of profound loneliness following his mother's passing, encapsulates the melancholic beauty of the snow-covered river:

Thousands of mountains and no birds fly,
The path is completely wiped out.
Old Man in Straw Hat and Raincoat on a Boat,
Fishing Alone in the Snowy River.

Notice something profound? The first character of each line, when read together, spells out “lonely.” This subtle yet powerful poetic device paints a vivid portrait of Liu Zongyuan’s emotional state during his exile. While the straw raincoat-clad fisherman may be a figment of the past, the poem’s poignant depiction of solitude echoes through time, immortalizing Yuxi Snow View in the annals of Chinese literature. My own attempt at modernizing the poem, focusing on a smoking fisherman, adds a touch of wry humor to the scene. The essence of Yongzhou's contemplative soul remains.

Yongzhou’s Eight Notes: A Literary Journey Through Time

Beyond the scenic wonders, Liu Zongyuan gifted us with his "Yongzhou Eight Notes," a collection of evocative travelogues that provide intimate glimpses into the landscapes and lives of Yongzhou's people. Each note is a mini-masterpiece, each one is a poignant reflection of his observations and experiences. I explored the Little Rock Pond, made famous in his writing, and found his descriptions remarkably accurate centuries later—the sound of water gently flowing through the bamboo is indeed reminiscent of the tinkling of jade pendants, just as he described. This highlights the timeless beauty and accuracy of his observations. I further ventured to Gumu Lake (Gumu meaning iron in ancient times), the setting for another note, where his account of buying land from a struggling farmer serves as a powerful social commentary on the burdens faced by ordinary people under heavy taxation. The West Hill, setting for another note, showcases his emotional journey from initial despair to eventual acceptance and integration into his new life in Yongzhou as he finally decides to purchase land and build a home. These accounts aren't just travelogues; they're windows into a specific moment in history, highlighting the human experience and social conditions of the time.

A Culinary Tapestry: From Blood Duck to Dong’an Chicken and Beyond

Now, let’s talk about the food! Yongzhou is a culinary paradise, a place where gastronomic adventures abound. The star of the show? Yongzhou Blood Duck. This isn't your average duck dish. The rich, savory combination of duck meat, blood, and an intricate blend of spices creates a bold and unforgettable flavor experience. My car-washing guru (yes, really!) recommended Qingxiang Restaurant – a small, unassuming eatery near a bustling bus station – and this modest place delivered a truly remarkable culinary experience. The duck was cooked to perfection: crispy skin that crackled with each bite, tender, succulent meat, and a sauce so flavorful it had me licking my fingers! It was a far cry from the dry, diesel-like versions I’ve sadly encountered elsewhere. This was the real deal, a testament to the restaurant's decades of culinary expertise.

My culinary explorations took me to Dong'an County, home of the legendary Dong’an Chicken. The portion sizes were gargantuan, a feast for the eyes before the taste buds were even involved. This unique dish, with its vinegar-based marinade, ginger, and chili peppers, delivers a symphony of flavors – spicy, sour, fragrant, and slightly numbing – a perfectly balanced culinary composition. The story of its origin – a chef’s accidental addition of vinegar, brilliantly salvaged with added ginger and chili – only enhances its appeal. This dish’s inclusion in a state banquet for President Nixon adds another layer of prestige to its already impressive history. The emphasis on the "eight large pieces and eight small pieces" – a tradition dating back to the eight-seat tables used in ancient times – underscores the communal nature of this dish and the cultural importance of sharing a meal.

Table Summarizing Yongzhou's Culinary Delights