This isn't your typical travelogue. This is the story of my gut – and my wallet – as I navigated the delicious chaos of Guangxi, China, culminating in a tantalizing peek across the border into Vietnam. I'm a seasoned American backpacker, and let me tell you, Guangxi delivered. Prepare for a whirlwind of vibrant markets, stunning coastal views, and enough food to make your taste buds sing (and maybe your stomach grumble a little).
Nanning Noodles and Charged-Up Travelers
My journey began in Nanning, a city already simmering under the April sun. The midday heat was intense, a prelude to the adventures ahead. Before catching my bus to Dongxing, I fueled up with a bowl of Guilin rice noodles – crispy pork belly and all – for a mere 13 yuan (about $1.80 USD). Surrounded by fellow travelers, all tethered to their phones via charging cables, I couldn’t help but ponder: were we connected to the world, or simply confined by these cords?
From Nanning to Fangchenggang: A High-Speed Rail Encounter
The train to Dongxing, with a stop in Fangchenggang, was packed. While I only managed a standing ticket to Fangchenggang, the 50-minute ride whizzed by. Arriving at Fangchenggang North Station, a modern high-speed rail hub, I immediately got a sense of the city's development.
Fangchenggang's Real Estate Market: A Northeast Chinese Influence
Chatting with locals, I learned about Fangchenggang's real estate market. Prices, once inflated by investors from Northeast China, have cooled down, averaging around 4,000-5,000 yuan per square meter (approximately $640 USD). This influx of Northeasterners, who sold their homes for a significant profit back home and purchased multiple properties here, dramatically reshaped the city’s landscape. The locals, many of whom own self-built homes, haven’t been as affected by this real estate boom and bust.
A Lakeside Haven: My Fangchenggang Hotel
Checking into the "Ban Dao Hu Pan Hotel," I scored an 80 yuan ($11 USD) lake-view room – a welcome upgrade after my Nanning hostel. The view was breathtaking, a stark contrast to the bustling city. The provided bottled water was a nice touch!
Exploring Fangchenggang: Coastal Beauty and Historical Significance
Fangchenggang, one of only two cities in China bordering both the sea and a foreign country (the other being Dandong, bordering North Korea), captivated me with its coastal beauty. After a brief rest, I set out to explore, starting with Xiwan Bay and Fubo Park, a site significant to the historical expedition of General Ma Yuan. The park's “China Oxygen Capital” sign amused me; I could certainly feel the fresh air.
Crossing Bridges and Discovering Hidden Islands
My journey took me across a stunning sea bridge, adorned with dragon and phoenix sculptures. From this vantage point, the cityscape of Fangchenggang, with its high-rises and bustling port, spread out before me. I discovered the bridge connected to a small island, providing an unexpected detour. The vibrant multicultural mix of Han, Zhuang, Yao, and Jing peoples was evident everywhere.
A Glimpse into Vietnam: Dongxing's Border Town Charm
The proximity to Vietnam was undeniable. Signage proudly proclaimed the distances to Mang Street (40km), Hanoi (397km), and Ha Long Bay (168km). The influence of Vietnamese culture was palpable, particularly in Dongxing, where many Vietnamese border residents conduct daily business.
Fangchenggang's Culinary Delights: Seafood Galore!
The Xiwan night market, a sensory explosion of sights, sounds, and smells, beckoned me. Seafood was the star attraction: plump oysters, succulent shrimp, and an array of shellfish. Despite a recent bout of illness (a touch of laryngitis), I indulged in a few carefully selected dishes, enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and the friendly banter with the vendors.
Fangchenggang's Night Market: Prices and Observations
| Dish | Price (CNY) | Price (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 Small Oysters | 25 | 3.50 | From a market stall |
| 10 Large Oysters | 35 | 5.00 | From a market stall |
| One Oyster King | 5 | 0.70 | Exceptionally large oyster |
| Shrimp (plate) | 45 | 6.25 | Approximately 500g |
| Duck Feet Pot | 48 | 6.70 | Hearty and flavorful |
| Chicken Noodle Soup | 12 | 1.70 | Tender chicken, flavorful broth |
| Seafood Pot (various) | Varies | Varies | A mix of seafood with broth |
I spent some time chatting with one of the stall owners. His stall fees were among the lowest in the market – about 20,000 yuan per year, compared to 50,000 yuan for prime waterfront locations. He lamented that business had been slow this year, attributing the downturn to the closure of nearby hotels and a reduction in construction workers.
A Day in the Life: Fangchenggang's Local Flavors
My days in Fangchenggang were filled with culinary explorations. I sampled local specialties like bo bai rice noodle rolls, ci ba glutinous rice cakes, and an array of fresh tropical fruits. The local market was a cornucopia of produce, meats, and of course, more seafood. I revisited my favorite chicken noodle soup stall – the tender, flavorful meat was simply irresistible. And I even braved a durian pineapple bun (the sweetness proved a bit overwhelming for my palate).
Seafood Markets and Processing: An Inside Look
Fangchenggang's seafood markets were a sight to behold, offering an impressive array of catches. I explored a two-story establishment where the first floor was a bustling market, and the second floor provided cooking services. The sheer variety and abundance of seafood were impressive. Even the processing costs were standardized.
Conclusion: A Culinary Journey Beyond the Border
My adventure in Guangxi was a delicious feast for the senses. From Nanning’s bustling streets to Fangchenggang’s coastal charm, and the tantalizing proximity of Vietnam, this journey left me with a stomach full of incredible food and a heart full of unforgettable memories. I highly recommend this unique route for any adventurous foodie backpacker. Now, if you'll excuse me, I have some incredible culinary photos to edit.
