Hey everyone, Mark here! As a seasoned backpacker with a passion for exploring Asia, I recently embarked on an incredible journey to the tri-border region of China, Russia, and North Korea. This wasn't your typical tourist trip; it was a deep dive into history, geopolitics, and the fascinating lives of people living on the edge of the world. Get ready for a wild ride!
A Ticket to History: Hunchun and the Sino-Korean Border
My adventure started in Hunchun, a city in China's Jilin province. For just 15 yuan (about $2 USD), I hopped on a bus towards the border. The journey itself was breathtaking, with vast rice paddies stretching as far as the eye could see. We passed through a charming Korean village, where I stocked up on supplies at a local store – a delightful mix of Chinese and Korean characters adorned the shop signs. This was my first taste of the unique blend of cultures in this region. The wind howled relentlessly, a constant companion throughout my trip.
The Sino-Korean Bridge and a Glimpse into North Korea
Our first stop: the Sino-Korean Bridge. Built by the Japanese in 1936, this bridge offers a unique perspective of North Korea. I walked halfway across, feeling the wind whip around me, and gazed at the North Korean landscape. From this vantage point, I could even see what’s rumored to be Kim Jong-un's villa! It's a potent reminder of this mysterious nation. You can even spot border markers and, if you're lucky, maybe even a North Korean soldier or two.
Understanding the Shifting Borders: Treaties and Territorial Disputes
The trip wasn't just about sightseeing. I wanted to understand the historical context of this border region. The stories I heard throughout my journey highlighted the impact of the unequal treaties signed between China and Russia in the 19th century.
| Treaty | Year | Outcome |
|---|---|---|
| Treaty of Aigun | 1858 | China ceded vast territories north of the Amur River to Russia. |
| Peking Convention | 1860 | China lost even more land east of the Ussuri River, including coastal areas. |
| Treaty of Nerchinsk | 1689 | Established initial border between Qing China and Russia, leading to future disputes. |
These treaties resulted in the loss of over a million square kilometers of Chinese territory, including access to the Sea of Japan (East Sea). The impact of these historical events is still palpable today.
Chasing the Sea: Tumen River and the Quest for Sea Access
The Tumen River, which forms part of the China-North Korea border, flows into the Sea of Japan. However, due to these historical treaties and later events, China has limited access to the sea through this river. This lack of direct access is a significant economic constraint for the region.
Three Countries, One Village: Fangchuan Village
Our journey culminated at Fangchuan Village, the only place in China where you can simultaneously touch the borders of Russia and North Korea. Here, the view is truly breathtaking, with the Sea of Japan visible in the distance. It's a place where history, geography, and geopolitics collide, making it one of the most unique and fascinating spots on Earth.
Fangchuan Village and the Dragon and Tiger Pavilion
Fangchuan is a beautifully preserved village nestled at the tri-border. I visited the Dragon and Tiger Pavilion, a stunning structure offering panoramic views of the three countries and the Sea of Japan. The 77 yuan (about $11 USD) entrance fee includes bus transportation and is well worth it for the experience and views. However, I must note that only Chinese citizens are allowed to access the observation decks.
The Russian Presence: A Cultural Encounter
Hunchun has a significant Russian presence, especially in the restaurant scene. I dined in a restaurant filled with Russian patrons, savoring the delicious local cuisine and observing their relaxed demeanor. It contrasted sharply with some of the grimmer media portrayals of Russia. It was a reminder that life goes on, even amidst global tensions.
The Unsolved Puzzle: Tumen River Access
My trip concluded with a reflection on China's aspiration to regain access to the Sea of Japan via the Tumen River. While the political will might exist, the reality is far more complex. The existing Russia-North Korea Friendship Bridge is too low for larger ships. The possibility of constructing a canal to circumvent this is still in the discussion phase. Whether this dream becomes a reality remains to be seen.
