Saga, Japan. A place most Americans might only know from the heartwarming tale of "Saga Grandma." But let me tell you, there's so much more to this prefecture than meets the eye. Forget the usual bullet train hop from Fukuoka. I took the road less traveled, flying straight into Saga Airport and renting a car to explore at my own pace. It was an unforgettable five-day adventure, revealing hidden gems and local delights. Trust me, Saga deserves a spot on your Japan itinerary.
Saga Castle and the History of Saga
First things first, history buffs, head straight to Saga Castle's Honmaru Historical Museum. It's the best place to immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of Saga's past. From the Edo-era Tiger Gate with its intricate carvings to the lord's tatami-matted living quarters (remember to take your shoes off!), you'll travel back in time. The museum also showcases the ingenious joinery techniques of Edo-era architecture—buildings constructed without a single nail!
Road Tripping Through Rural Saga
Driving in rural Japan is a dream. Empty roads, plentiful parking (often free!), and a tranquil atmosphere create a truly relaxing experience. Saga's central location makes it a great base for exploring the broader Kyushu region. With Fukuoka to the east and Nagasaki to the west, day trips are easily manageable. But I chose to focus solely on Saga for my five days, and it didn't disappoint. Renting a car for five days cost me around ¥30,000, including insurance – a real bargain.
Beyond the Usual: Karatsu, Hukuoka, and a Shrine for Lottery Luck
While the hot spring towns of Ureshino and Takeo are well-known, I ventured north to Karatsu and Hukuoka. Karatsu Castle, with its graceful white crane-like appearance, is a famous spot for cherry blossom and wisteria viewing. However, my main objective was the nearby宝当神社 (Hodan Shrine), a unique shrine dedicated to lottery luck.
To reach this hidden gem, I took a short ten-minute ferry ride from Karatsu port. The island itself is quiet and unassuming, but the shrine is buzzing with hopeful visitors. Walls plastered with winning lottery tickets offer testament to the shrine's supposed power. I, of course, bought a "Kinun Ryuchoshu" amulet for good fortune – wouldn't you? Let's just say the results are a secret between me and the lottery gods.
Hukuoka: A Squid Lover's Paradise
Next up was Hukuoka, home to one of Japan's three major morning markets. Here, squid is king. From quirky squid-shaped sightseeing boats to the must-try "Squid Three Ways" culinary experience, Hukuoka is a seafood lover's dream. Imagine this:
| Squid Dish | Description |
|---|---|
| Fresh Squid Sashimi | Translucent, fresh-off-the-boat squid, still practically wriggling. The texture is incredibly smooth and chewy. |
| Squid Shumai | Steamed dumplings filled with meat and wrapped in a delicate layer of squid, offering a delightful mix of land and sea flavors. |
| Squid Tempura | Crispy tempura made from the squid's head and tentacles, a perfect way to enjoy the firmer parts of the squid. |
From Trains to Hot Springs: A Different Kind of Kyushu Adventure
While I embraced the open road, my friend prefers Japan's efficient and comfortable train system, especially for experiencing Kyushu's unique railway lines. He highly recommends the Yufuin no Mori train. This classic wooden train offers a nostalgic journey with panoramic views, a dining car, and even free conductor uniform rentals for kids. While the train is covered by the JR Pass, it's essential to reserve seats in advance due to its popularity. The two-hour ride from Hakata Station to Yufuin is an experience in itself, and Yufuin, with its charming onsen town and stunning Kinrinko Lake, makes a perfect day trip or overnight stay.
A Tranquil Escape in Oita: Riverside Relaxation
Finally, we journeyed to Oita, a prefecture steeped in onsen history. We stayed at a remarkable onsen ryokan that seamlessly blended into the natural surroundings. Despite being only 20 years old, the architecture and ambiance evoked a sense of timeless tradition. Each room offered stunning views – a babbling brook in front, a lush forest behind. The food was exceptional, showcasing Oita's agricultural bounty, from locally grown vegetables and Bungo beef to fresh river fish and shrimp. And let's not forget the mountain of eggs for breakfast, perfect for mixing with rice and a dash of soy sauce. The price for this tranquil escape? Around 10,000 Taiwan dollars (approximately US$320) including breakfast.
So, are you ready to discover the real Saga? It's time to go beyond the grandma stories and uncover the hidden treasures of this captivating prefecture. Rent a car, explore at your leisure, and immerse yourself in the unique charm of rural Japan.
