Kyushu, the often-overlooked island of Japan, is a treasure trove of natural beauty, vibrant culture, and delicious cuisine. As an avid traveler, I recently embarked on an unforgettable rail journey across this enchanting island, and I'm here to share my experience and convince you why Kyushu deserves a spot on your Asian adventure list.
The Ultimate Base Camp: Kumamoto Station Hotel
My journey began in Kumamoto, where I stayed at a fantastic hotel located directly above Kumamoto Station. Talk about convenience! A quick right turn and up the escalator from the station exit, and I was there. The hotel's location is truly unbeatable. Kumamoto Station is a hub of activity, packed with souvenir shops, local produce vendors, drugstores, and even a supermarket. Across the street, a Bic Camera beckons with all sorts of electronics.
The hotel itself is modern and stylish, with top-notch amenities. My room was impeccably designed and furnished with high-quality materials. But the real highlight? The onsen! A hot spring bath in a city-center hotel, especially one connected to the station, is a rare find. After a long day of exploring, soaking in the onsen while enjoying the view was pure bliss.
And let's not forget the breakfast! While not an extensive buffet, the breakfast spread features local Kyushu ingredients, including a unique horse meat curry. Yes, you read that right! Horse meat is a Kumamoto specialty, and while sashimi is the usual preparation, the curry offered a delicious twist. Paired with unlimited glasses of refreshing Aso milk (which you can also mix into Aso coffee milk), it was the perfect start to each day.
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Location | Directly above Kumamoto Station |
| Amenities | Onsen (hot spring bath), modern rooms, great views |
| Food | Delicious breakfast featuring local Kyushu ingredients, including horse meat curry |
| Convenience | Connected to shops, restaurants, and transportation |
| Approximate Cost | Around 5,000 NTD (New Taiwan Dollars) |
Beyond Kumamoto: Exploring Kyushu by Train
Kyushu boasts a fantastic network of scenic trains, each offering a unique experience. While individual segments are enjoyable, connecting them can involve transfers and Shinkansen rides, which can be a bit of a hassle. For travelers like me who prefer simplicity, the "36+3" train is the perfect solution.
The Enigmatic 36+3
This unique train is named after Kyushu's status as the 36th largest island in the world, plus "3" representing the emotions of "感動" (kandō - moved), "驚奇" (kyōki - surprised), and "幸福" (kōfuku - happiness) – designed to evoke during your journey. The train operates five days a week, following five different routes (blue, green, black, gold, and red), each covering a distinct section of the island. Over a week, the routes combine to form a complete circle around Kyushu.
While I couldn't afford the luxurious Seven Stars in Kyushu train, the 36+3 offered an incredible experience that certainly felt like a worthy alternative. The train's exterior, with its black and gold 36+3 logo, exudes a classic, vintage charm.
Inside, the train is even more stunning. The carriages are beautifully appointed with rich wood paneling and accented with colorful, nostalgic floral patterns on the seats, carpets, and curtains. It's worth noting that JR Rail Pass holders can only access the fifth and sixth carriages. The first three carriages are reserved for passengers with special reservations, offering private compartments that evoke a bygone era of luxury rail travel.
The third carriage also features a bar where you can enjoy a selection of alcoholic beverages while taking in the scenery. The fourth carriage serves as a lounge area, sometimes hosting DIY activities – perfect for keeping kids entertained.
Even in the standard class carriages (fifth and sixth), the level of comfort is exceptional. The wide seats, complete with cup holders, storage pouches, and charging ports, feel like business class. The fact that you're asked to remove your shoes before entering adds to the sense of exclusivity.
Booking Your Kyushu Rail Adventure
Booking these specialty trains requires some planning. The easiest way is through the official Kyushu JR Railway website. Create an account, select your desired dates and routes, choose your seats, and pay online.
For those who prefer to book in person, green ticket windows are available at JR stations across Japan. However, keep in mind that these trains, especially the specialty ones like the 36+3 and Yufuin no Mori, often sell out quickly, particularly during peak season. Booking in advance, ideally a month or more ahead of your travel dates, is highly recommended to secure your preferred seats, especially window seats. While there's a small booking fee (around 1,000 JPY for adults), the peace of mind is worth it. If you plan to take multiple train journeys, a JR Pass is a cost-effective option, but remember to reserve your seats in advance even with the pass.
