Hello fellow travelers! Mark here, your friendly American backpacker, back from an unforgettable journey through Hunan Province, China. From the breathtaking sandstone pillars of Zhangjiajie to the bustling food scene of Changsha, this trip was a feast for the senses. If you're looking for an Asian adventure that combines stunning natural beauty with incredible culinary experiences, Hunan should be at the top of your list.
Zhangjiajie National Forest Park: A Hiker's Paradise
My adventure began in Zhangjiajie, a place that seems straight out of a fantasy novel. After landing at Hehua Airport and taking a shuttle to Wulingyuan, I checked into my cozy民宿 (minsu, a type of family-run guesthouse) and immediately headed to the park.
My first stop was the Ten Mile Gallery, a scenic walk flanked by bizarre rock formations. Even the overcast sky couldn't dampen my spirits. The air was fresh and clean, a true "natural oxygen bar" as they say. The highlight was spotting the "Three Sisters Peaks," though the mist obscured their full majesty. I also sampled some freshly made ge gen su (a local sweet treat) – delicious!
The following days were packed with hiking. I skipped the Bailong Elevator (known as the "Hundred Dragons Elevator") and opted for a challenging but rewarding hike up to Yuanjiajie and Yangjiajie. The views were absolutely worth the effort, showcasing vistas you wouldn't see from the elevator.
| Day | Hike | Highlights | Tips |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | Yuanjiajie & Yangjiajie | Stunning views, challenging but rewarding climb | Bring water, wear layers, avoid summer hikes |
| 3 | Huangshizhai & Golden Whip Stream | Panoramic views, monkey encounters | Watch your food around monkeys! |
A word of warning: the hike is strenuous, especially in the summer heat. Spring or fall are ideal times to visit. I also explored the Golden Whip Stream, a beautiful walk alongside a crystal-clear stream. Be prepared for close encounters with the local monkey population! They're adorable but mischievous – keep a tight grip on your belongings.
Changsha: A Foodie's Dream
After Zhangjiajie, I took a high-speed train to Changsha, Hunan's vibrant capital. Here, my focus shifted from hiking to indulging in the local cuisine.
My first stop, of course, was Cha Yan Yue Se, the famous tea shop. The tea was fantastic, but the real highlight of Changsha was the food. I feasted on spicy crayfish, flavorful "three-pot" stew, and the local specialty, stinky tofu (don't let the name scare you, it's surprisingly delicious!).
| Dish | Recommendation | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Stinky Tofu | Must-try | Deep-fried and fermented tofu, surprisingly addictive |
| Three-Pot Stew | Okay | Hearty stew with various meats and vegetables |
| Crayfish | Must-try | Spicy and flavorful |
| Changsha Rice Noodles | Must-try | Wide, flat noodles in a savory broth |
I also explored some of Changsha's historical sites, including Yuelu Mountain, Orange Island, and the charming太平街 (Taiping Street).
Phoenix Ancient Town: A Step Back in Time
A short bus ride from Changsha lies Fenghuang (Phoenix) Ancient Town, a picturesque town nestled on the Tuojiang River. I strolled along the riverbanks, admiring the traditional architecture and soaking in the atmosphere. I even had a professional photoshoot in traditional clothing – a fun and affordable souvenir! While the Miao cakes were a bit underwhelming, the local spicy pickled vegetables and the nighttime illuminations along the river were memorable. However, one restaurant recommended by a local was a miss – sometimes even local tips don't pan out!
Final Thoughts
My Hunan adventure was a whirlwind of stunning landscapes, delicious food, and cultural immersion. From the majestic peaks of Zhangjiajie to the bustling streets of Changsha, Hunan offers something for every traveler. I highly recommend this region to anyone seeking an authentic and unforgettable Asian experience.
