Hey there, fellow adventurers! Mark here, your friendly neighborhood travel blogger, back with another amazing story from my Asian escapades. This time, I journeyed to a place that's both strangely familiar and utterly unique: Hengdaohezi, a small town nestled in the mountains of Northeast China, a relic of a bygone era when Russia's influence stretched far beyond its borders.
A Glimpse into History: Hengdaohezi's Russian Roots
My adventure started with a simple question: Why are there over 100 Russian-style wooden houses scattered across this remote valley? The answer lies in the history of the Chinese Eastern Railway (CER), a branch line of the Trans-Siberian Railway, built at the end of the 19th century. A local craftsman enlightened me: the Russians built the railway, and Hengdaohezi sprung up around a key station. Later, the Japanese occupied the area after defeating the Russians, adding another layer to its complex past. Today, remnants of this history are scattered throughout the town.
Reaching Hengdaohezi: A Budget-Friendly Journey
Getting to Hengdaohezi was a breeze. I took a taxi from the Northeast Tiger Park for a mere 15 yuan (around $2 USD), a short 4-kilometer ride. However, upon arrival, the town felt unusually quiet, perhaps due to the cold weather. The town itself isn't exactly bustling; its charm is more subtle and requires a little exploration.
A Culinary Delight: Sampling Local Flavors
My stomach rumbling after a meager egg and hamburger breakfast, I quickly found a restaurant near the century-old train station. The menu was simple, clearly priced, and the portions—oh my! The owner proudly highlighted the garlic-braised pork knuckle (68 yuan, 2500 grams) and the eggplant sticks (24 yuan). While I couldn't manage the knuckle, the eggplant was delicious. I learned that business has boomed in recent years, thanks to social media.
Meeting a Russian Traveler: A Shared History
I struck up a conversation with a Russian tourist at the station. She lives in Harbin and was visiting Hengdaohezi as a day trip. When I asked about the history of the train station, she knew it was built by the Russians but didn't know the full details, showcasing the site's intriguing, partially forgotten story. We exchanged a few words in Russian; my newfound skills didn't impress her, sadly.
Hengdaohezi Today: From Quiet Hamlet to Tourist Hotspot
The town’s transformation is remarkable. What was once a sleepy village is now experiencing a revival. Many local businesses, especially restaurants and guesthouses, are thriving thanks to an influx of tourists, primarily attracted through social media platforms like Xiaohongshu (China's version of Instagram). Many visitors come to capture photos, taking advantage of the town's resemblance to Hokkaido, Japan, especially during the winter months. Local shops have even adapted, with some doubling as photography studios for travelers.
Exploring Hengdaohezi's Hidden Gems
My exploration took me to several key sites:
| Site | Description |
|---|---|
| Mid-East Railway Locomotive Depot | A unique fan-shaped depot, a testament to Russian engineering prowess and now a museum. |
| Saint Mary's Church | A beautiful example of Russian Orthodox architecture. |
| Mid-East Railway Museum | Houses exhibits tracing the history of the Chinese Eastern Railway and steam locomotives. |
| Russian-style architecture | The town is dotted with over 100 beautifully preserved Russian-style wooden houses. |
| Local restaurants | Serving traditional Northeastern Chinese cuisine, many now cater to the growing tourism industry. |
The Enduring Legacy of the Chinese Eastern Railway
The Chinese Eastern Railway's impact on Hengdaohezi is undeniable. Built through the cooperation (albeit a pressured one) between the Qing government and Russia, it forever altered the town's destiny. The railway's construction, the subsequent Japanese occupation, and the post-Soviet era have all left their marks on this fascinating place. Learning about the treaties that led to its construction (the Aigun Treaty and the Peking Convention of 1860) added another layer of historical depth to my understanding. The railway shortened the travel time between Moscow and Vladivostok by thousands of kilometers, underscoring its strategic importance.
A Town Transformed: Past, Present, and Future
Hengdaohezi is a captivating blend of past and present. The town's quiet charm, coupled with its unique history and growing popularity as a tourist destination, creates a truly special atmosphere. The contrast between the dilapidated buildings and the new construction, alongside the growing tourism industry, paints a picture of a town struggling but finding renewed purpose. As many residents move to cities, there's an interesting dynamic of properties for sale, empty buildings, and the ongoing development around the train station.
Final Thoughts
Hengdaohezi was a surprising and rewarding destination. Its quiet beauty and rich history made a lasting impression on me. This place is a window into the past, a reminder of the complex interactions between nations and the enduring legacy of infrastructure projects. I strongly encourage anyone traveling through Northeast China to make a visit to Hengdaohezi; you won't be disappointed.hotorealistic, slightly cinematic.
