Hey everyone, Mark here! I'm a seasoned backpacker with a passion for exploring Asia's incredible landscapes. Today, I'm sharing my exhilarating adventure conquering Taiwan's Fire Mountain (Huoyan Shan), voted the number one trail in Taiwan's "Top 100 Must-Visit Trails." Get ready for breathtaking views, challenging climbs, and a fascinating glimpse into Taiwan's history!
A Misty Morning Start
My hike began at 7:30 AM. The weather wasn't ideal; a thick fog hung over Sanyi, leaving me uncertain about the views I'd encounter. I started from the newly constructed bridge leading to the trailhead, a little apprehensive but excited for the adventure that lay ahead. The trailhead was different from what I remembered, featuring an immediate fork. I opted for the left path, leading to South Fire Mountain (also known as Bogonggang Mountain or Bogongkeng Mountain).
The Challenging Climb & First Glimpses of Beauty
The circular trail is 6.4 kilometers, and the initial climb took about 20 minutes. Even at this early stage, the unique geological landscape of Fire Mountain began to reveal itself. While the most spectacular Grand Canyon was still an hour away, the stunning views were already worth the effort. I encountered a few forks in the path, eventually merging with the main trail at a small viewing platform. This area offers a wonderful resting spot, with a large rock perfect for a quick break. The landscape itself, scorched-earth-like, perfectly explains the mountain's name. The temperature gradually rose, so I switched to a lighter jacket. I hit the notorious "Good Man Slope" (a very steep portion of the trail) which, at that point, was also lightly sprinkled with rain, adding a bit of a chill.
The Grand Canyon Awaits
Facing another fork, I bypassed the path to the smaller canyon (the entrance was blocked), continuing towards the Grand Canyon (0.5 km). The weather played games with me, prompting yet another jacket change. It's always better to be slightly too warm than too cold when hiking! Along the way, I appreciated the thoughtful provision of a first-aid kit by the Miaoli County Fire Mountain Mountaineering Association. Reaching the canyon's edge, I climbed to an overlook for the most magnificent views. While somewhat visible from the trail, the optimum viewpoints are further up and require a bit more scrambling. I took a safer, newer trail, appreciating the improved safety measures in place. After about 100 minutes of hiking, I reached what I thought was the best viewpoint—the stunning Grand Canyon. However, I quickly discovered there were even better spots higher up!
Reaching the Summit & Historic Discoveries
I continued my trek, the additional climb absolutely worth it for the panoramic view from the final viewpoint. From here, it was a relatively quick descent to head back to the trailhead, completing the circuit. To summit Xiaobaiyue Fire Mountain, however, I still needed to push on. The final ascent to the summit (about 1.5 km and 40-60 minutes) presented more challenges—rain and mist rolled in, obscuring some of the views. Nonetheless, I persevered, grateful for glimpses of the breathtaking canyon during less misty moments. I reached the summit (elevation 602 meters), marked by a triangulation point. The summit was windy and damp, but the sense of accomplishment was incredible.
From the summit, I journeyed towards the North Saddle, visiting the ancient Sanli Stone Earth God shrine. The trail to the North Saddle was familiar—I hadn't traveled this section in 17 years. The trail is significantly improved with better safety railings. At the 3.5 km mark, I reached the shrine, finding it well-maintained. This section held a powerful sense of nostalgia—I'd aged, but the shrine remained a constant. The descent via the North Saddle Ancient Trail was new to me; 17 years ago, the path was difficult to follow. The trail eventually joined the South Saddle Ancient Trail, leading back to the trailhead (approximately 2.9km, 1 hour). The descent was primarily downhill.
Towards the end of the hike, I found myself walking along the remains of an old railway line. I’d discovered, while researching Fire Mountain the day before, that this area once housed Bogongkeng Station, a vital part of the Taiwan Longitudinal Railway's history. The remains of the platform are still visible beside the road. This historical site served as a reminder of the human effort and ingenuity that shaped Taiwan's landscape. Finally, I returned to the trailhead after a total of approximately 4 hours, a day filled with both physical and historical adventure.
Trail Summary
| Trail Name | Fire Mountain (Huoyan Shan) Trail |
|---|---|
| Total Distance | 6.4 km (loop) |
| Hiking Time | ~4 hours (my experience) |
| Elevation Gain | Significant |
| Difficulty | Moderate to Strenuous |
| Key Highlights | Grand Canyon, stunning views, historical sites |
| Recommended Gear | Hiking boots, layers of clothing, rain gear, water, snacks |
