Hi everyone, Mark here, your friendly neighborhood travel blogger! I've always loved exploring the vibrant cities of Asia, and recently, I embarked on an unforgettable trip to Xinjiang, China, specifically to experience Kurban Bayram (Eid al-Adha) in Kashgar. This bustling city, located on the westernmost edge of China, bordering multiple countries, promised a unique cultural immersion, and it certainly delivered – though not exactly in the way I expected!
The 36-Hour Odyssey: From Yining to Kashgar
My journey began in Yining. To reach Kashgar, I opted for a combination of train and bus travel, a 3-day adventure in itself! I wanted to arrive in Kashgar before dawn on the first day of Kurban Bayram. The first leg of my trip, a 36-hour journey from Yining to Kashgar, involved breathtaking scenery. I passed the magnificent Guozi Gorge Bridge, a feat of engineering once considered impossible, and the stunning Lake Sailimu, where numerous happy couples were capturing their wedding photos amidst picturesque flower arches. Traveling along the G30 highway provided easy access to the lake, perfect for both self-driven tours and convenient shuttle buses. The sheer scale of the wind turbines along the way was also something I'll never forget!
A Night on the Train and the Dawn of Xinjiang
In Bole, I switched buses to catch the train to Urumqi. The train ride, though uneventful for much of the night (and with the constant snoring of my neighbor!), was punctuated by amazing sights – the vast expanse of container ports near Urumqi, a truly surprising sight in an inland city. I arrived in Urumqi around 6:30 AM, marveling at the early morning light.
From Urumqi to Kashgar: A Journey Through Time and Landscapes
After a quick transfer, I boarded the train to Kashgar. The views shifted from desert landscapes punctuated by pockets of cultivation (corn and fragrant pears) to the increasingly verdant fields around Korla. This section was particularly nostalgic, as I’d filmed the Korla pear harvest here in 2021. The journey felt strangely familiar, a testament to the power of memory and travel! The final leg of my journey was less glamorous. From Urumqi to Kashgar, I had to take a sleeper train to Malan Station and then a 15-hour standing-room-only ride to Kashgar. Let me tell you, a 15-hour stand-up train ride is an experience. It reminded me of my college days, when I stood the entire way on an overnight train from Guangzhou to Beijing. Eventually, at 5:45 AM, I arrived in Kashgar, weary but exhilarated.
Kashgar: Arrival and First Impressions
Kashgar, the westernmost city in China, is known for its multi-ethnic population and rich history as a crucial point on the Silk Road. It was my second time here. The station was vastly different compared to my first visit three years ago. It had new escalators and clear signage for taxis and ride-sharing apps; a vast improvement. The city itself, I noticed immediately, was incredibly different. The old town, for one, was now exceptionally clean and well-maintained, yet it held a distinct charm I loved.
Kurban Bayram in Kashgar: A Day in the Life
Kurban Bayram, the most important holiday for many ethnic minorities in Xinjiang (including the Uyghur, Kazakh, and Hui people), was celebrated with a quiet solemnity that surprised me. My expectations for a vibrant, bustling celebration were not met, which was a bit of a letdown.
Exploring Kashgar: Food, Culture, and Contrasts
My exploration of Kashgar began with a search for breakfast. I headed to a popular restaurant known for its plov, but unfortunately, it was closed for the holiday. The streets were alive with the sounds and smells of the holiday, from the sight of freshly slaughtered sheep to the vibrant colors of traditional clothing.
| Food | Description | Price (RMB) |
|---|---|---|
| Plov (Pilaf) | National Dish, various types exist throughout Central Asia | Varies |
| Lamb skewers | Xinjiang staple, grilled on open flames. | Varies |
| Nan (Flatbread) | Essential bread served with many dishes. | Varies |
| Goat Milk/Yogurt | Freshly produced, enjoyed as a drink or snack. | Varies |
| Thin-Skinned Buns (Baozi) | Buns with different fillings such as mutton, pumpkin, or vegetables. | 2-5 |
| Hand-pulled noodles | Long, thin noodles, can have a variety of flavours and meats. | Varies |
| Big Plate Chicken | Hearty stew with chicken, potatoes and spices | 15 |
| Roasted Camel Meat | A less common delicacy, but available in some markets. | Varies |
| Dried Fruits & Nuts | Abundant and flavorful. | Varies |
| Watermelon & other summer produce | Seasonal fruits are abundant in summer. | Varies |
I visited the Id Kah Mosque, one of China’s oldest mosques, built in 1442. Though I didn’t witness the massive congregational prayers I expected, the atmosphere was still profound. I also wandered through the Kashgar Grand Bazaar (Khan Bazaar), marveling at the variety of goods and the sheer size of the plov pots! I even had a chance to try several regional delicacies: the thin-skinned buns were a revelation, filled with savory meat juice, and the pumpkin buns, recommended by locals, were a delightful mix of sweet and savory.
The Changing Face of Kashgar: Tourism and Transformation
Kashgar's transformation is striking. I was surprised to find numerous photography studios along the main streets within the old city, a phenomenon virtually non-existent just a few years ago. Local girls told me that this influx of photography studios reflects the city's growing popularity as a tourist destination. This rapid development is confirmed by official tourism statistics. The number of photography studios seems to have grown exponentially within the last four years.
| Year | Tourist Arrivals (millions) | Tourism Revenue (billion RMB) |
|---|---|---|
| 2024 | 1.62 | 13.2 |
| 2023 | Data Not Available | Data Not Available |
| 2020 | Data Not Available | Data Not Available |
A Personal Reflection
My Kurban Bayram in Kashgar wasn't what I anticipated. While I missed the large-scale celebrations, I found a different kind of beauty in the quiet solemnity of the holiday, in the intimate details of family life, and in the ever-changing face of the city. I experienced the warmth of Xinjiang's hospitality and the fascinating blend of cultures that make this region so unique. Kashgar remains a captivating place; a place I truly recommend to other English-speaking travelers looking for a unique and unforgettable adventure in Asia.
