Hey everyone, Mark here! I'm a seasoned backpacker with a serious wanderlust, particularly for the vibrant cities and breathtaking landscapes of Asia. This time, I chased the magic of the Yi Fire Torch Festival, and let me tell you, it was an adventure for the ages. This trip was a significant departure from my usual budget-friendly travels in China, which usually involve green trains, buses, and the occasional high-speed rail. This time? I flew! I splurged on the priciest ticket I've ever bought – a flight from Kashgar to Chengdu – all to witness this spectacular event.
A whirlwind journey across China
My journey began at 2:13 AM, waiting at Chengdu airport for over ten hours before catching a connecting flight to Xichang, Sichuan. The contrast was incredible. I'd just left Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County, where I needed a light down jacket in the morning, and arrived in Chengdu feeling the humid heat in a t-shirt. Taxkorgan's summer climate is truly a hidden gem: cool and dry. But Chengdu? Hot, humid, and sticky! I’m already convinced Taxkorgan is the perfect summer escape.
At 7:55 AM, after a night sleeping in the airport, I felt a surge of excitement. In just a few hours, I'd be transported from the Xinjiang border plateau to a mountainous county in Sichuan – a completely different world with different people, different food, a new chapter in my journey.
My first taste of Sichuan cuisine? Chongqing noodles, which I ordered and then added another serving to make sure I got my fill. Three bucks for a hearty, flavorful serving - what a deal!
Reaching Puge County: A Journey of Contrasts
By 12:13 PM, I finally arrived in Xichang, Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture. From there, I hopped on a bus to Puge County. Xichang, at over 1,500 meters above sea level, provided a welcome change in climate; pleasantly cool and comfortable. I opted for a more comfortable (and slightly pricier) 8-seater business van for 45 yuan, rather than the regular bus for 31 yuan. I saved some time and arrived quicker, though.
The journey from a Xinjiang border town to the heart of the Greater Liangshan mountains in just one day is something I'll never forget. The people, the landscapes, everything felt utterly transformative. This incredible journey happened just because of the Fire Torch Festival. Otherwise, I probably would have spent another month in Xinjiang.
My visit to Puge County wasn’t a spontaneous decision. Last year, I experienced the Fire Torch Festival in Butuo County, and I was absolutely blown away. I heard about Puge County, supposedly the birthplace of the festival, and I knew I had to return and experience its authenticity for myself.
Puge County: Immersion in Yi Culture
After 30 grueling hours, encompassing two flights, a taxi, two buses, and two more bus rides, I arrived in Puge County at 4 PM. Finding accommodation was a nightmare; everything was booked, with prices inflated by 200-500%! I only managed to secure a room for the 17th and 18th, leaving the 19th and 20th uncertain.
While waiting, I met a deaf and mute woman shoe-shiner. Her quiet, determined work ethic touched me. Many elderly women in this area wear a distinctive round hat, and I've been fascinated by the regional attire.
Here’s some basic information on Puge County:
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Location | Central Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province |
| Area | Approximately 1,800 sq km |
| Terrain | Primarily mountainous |
| Ethnic Groups | Primarily Yi, with smaller Han and Tibetan populations |
| Economy | Primarily agriculture (walnuts, pepper, medicinal herbs), limited industry |
| Tourism | Growing due to social media promotion of the Fire Torch Festival |
The Fire Torch Festival: A Spectacle Unlike Any Other
The Fire Torch Festival was truly unforgettable. The vibrant atmosphere, the traditional costumes, the sheer energy of the celebrations – it was an overwhelming sensory experience.
I grabbed a delicious watermelon for 6 yuan (the same watermelon cost 15 yuan in the nearby stores), and witnessed the preparation for the festival. Fire torches, sold for 10 yuan each, were ready to light up the night. The women selling wild mushrooms (Chicken of the Woods) were fascinating to watch. A beautiful woman bought over three pounds of high-quality mushrooms for approximately 300 yuan. It's clear that their hard work, including waking up as early as 3 AM to harvest them (a 3-hour drive from the city!), pays off. They can earn up to 700-800 yuan per day.
Navigating Puge County was an adventure in itself. The hilly terrain makes walking tiring, leading to heavy reliance on motorbike taxis (摩的). I took several rides, racking up a hefty bill – a testament to the limited flat land available. Many men earn their living this way, navigating steep inclines with their motorbike taxis.
The Grand Opening Ceremony: A Night to Remember
The opening ceremony was scheduled for 8 PM, but the queue started forming at 4:30 PM. I spent a couple of hours waiting in the sun before finally securing a seat. I had a small mishap leaving my seat to use the restroom; a new entry point opened up and they wouldn't let me back in! Only the help of a kind Yi elder and a police officer managed to get me back inside.
The ceremony was incredible; breathtaking drone shows depicting Yi culture, traditional wrestling matches, and the general atmosphere – absolutely electrifying. The drone show was particularly stunning, creating vibrant and colorful images, showcasing the history and people of Puge County in a spectacular way. It truly made an indelible impression on me.
