Hey fellow travelers! Mark here, your friendly neighborhood backpacker, back from an incredible culinary adventure in Aomori, Japan. If you're looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination in Asia with a unique food scene, Aomori should be at the top of your list! This prefecture, located at the northern tip of Honshu, blew me away with its fresh seafood, innovative cuisine, and warm hospitality. Buckle up as I take you on a mouthwatering journey through my Aomori food experience.
A Taste of Tokyo in Aomori City: Hanashu
My first dinner in Aomori City was a revelation. Tucked away in a quiet alley behind my hotel was Hanashu, a creative culinary gem. Chef Hideki Hanada, who honed his skills in Tokyo and France, has brought a sophisticated touch to the local dining scene. The meal was a delightful fusion of Japanese flavors and French techniques, featuring fresh, local ingredients. I highly recommend this spot for a relaxed yet refined dining experience.
Deconstructing the Dishes at Hanashu
One of the standout dishes was the creamy cod milt soup, a delicate balance of richness and umami. The cod milt was poached in kelp and salt, then blended with Japanese dashi to create a velvety texture without any added cream. It was my first taste of cod milt this year, and it was a memorable one. Another highlight was the abalone, sea urchin, and shark fin soup, reminiscent of a local delicacy called "strawberry soup." The abalone was slow-cooked sous vide with kelp at 84 degrees Celsius, resulting in a tender and flavorful bite. I learned that, unlike some practices where shark fin is harvested inhumanely, in Aomori, the entire shark is utilized, promoting sustainability. This eco-conscious approach to using shark fin impressed me.
From Aomori City to Hachinohe: The Quest for Saba
The next leg of my journey took me to Hachinohe, a coastal city renowned for its saba (mackerel). After checking into my hotel, we headed to Saba no Eki (Mackerel Station), a restaurant specializing in Hachinohe's famous "Hachinohe maeoki" mackerel, known for its rich, fatty flavor due to the cold waters it thrives in. We sampled a variety of saba dishes, including simple salt-grilled mackerel and a surprisingly delicious saba sandwich, reminiscent of a salmon sandwich but with a more intense flavor. The freshness and quality of the saba were simply outstanding.
| Dish | My Impressions |
|---|---|
| Salt-Grilled Mackerel | Perfectly grilled, highlighting the natural flavors |
| Saba Sandwich | Refreshing and flavorful, a must-try! |
| Squid Ink Pasta | Rich and savory, with a unique depth of flavor. |
| Squid Intestine Soy Sauce | An adventurous delicacy with a strong, umami taste. |
Aomori's Hidden Gems: Yatai Village and Ark Bar
After our mackerel feast, we stumbled upon a charming yatai village, a collection of small food stalls offering a diverse range of local delicacies. We couldn't resist trying the local garlic, a specialty of Aomori, and it was surprisingly mild and sweet, almost like a potato with a hint of garlic flavor. To cap off the night, we visited Ark, a speakeasy-style bar ranked 67th in Asia's 50 Best Bars. The owner, Toshiyuki Kubo, crafted incredible cocktails using local Aomori ingredients. His apple gin cocktail, featuring apple juice made from discarded apples (a sustainable practice!), was a true highlight.
Horsepower and Italian Flair: Gonohe and Hirosaki
My Aomori adventure continued with a unique lunch experience in Gonohe, a town known for its horse meat cuisine. We tried the Yoshitsune Nabe, a hot pot said to have been invented by the legendary warrior Minamoto no Yoshitsune. The lean horse meat was surprisingly flavorful and tender, resembling a lean cut of beef. Later, in Hirosaki, we dined at Da Sasino, a renowned Italian restaurant helmed by Chef Michiaki Sasamori. The meal was an exquisite display of culinary artistry, featuring homemade pasta, fresh seafood, and locally sourced ingredients. The beet ravioli with browned butter and sage was a standout dish, showcasing the chef's mastery of flavors and textures.
The Heart of Aomori Cuisine
Throughout my journey, I was struck by the warmth and generosity of the Aomori people. While they may appear reserved at first, their hospitality shines through in their cuisine. Aomori's food is a reflection of its people – simple yet profound, rustic yet refined. From the freshest seafood to the innovative culinary creations, Aomori offers a unique culinary experience that will leave you wanting more. I encourage everyone to explore this hidden gem and discover the heart of Japanese hospitality.
