Hi everyone, Mark here! I'm an American backpacker with a passion for exploring Asia's vibrant cities and hidden gems. This time, my adventure took me to a place shrouded in mystery: the border between China and North Korea. Forget the sensationalized media reports – I’m sharing my firsthand experience exploring the Yalu River and gaining a unique perspective on North Korea, specifically the third-largest city, Hyesan.
A Glimpse Across the Yalu: Hyesan, North Korea
My journey began in Changbai Korean Autonomous County, China, a mere 30 meters from the North Korean border. This is the only Korean Autonomous County in China, with a population of about 86,000, including approximately 14,000 ethnic Koreans. Centuries ago, both Changbai County and North Korea were part of the Bohai Kingdom, a tributary state of the Tang Dynasty. Today, the ethnic Koreans in Changbai County can seamlessly communicate with their North Korean neighbors in Korean.
Before arriving, my preconceived notions of North Korea mirrored what I’d seen in the media: backward, impoverished, and oppressive. However, conversations with the residents of Changbai County, who have lived alongside North Korea for generations, shattered these assumptions. I was surprised to hear about things like free education, free housing, and even a surprisingly wealthy upper class.
Challenging Perceptions: Conversations with Locals
My conversations with locals provided insights that significantly altered my understanding. One woman shared the following:
| Statement | My Interpretation |
|---|---|
| "North Koreans have a higher happiness index than we do in China." | Reflects a societal emphasis on community and basic needs provision, possibly at the cost of individual liberty and economic opportunity. |
| "Wealthy North Koreans come to Changbai County to shop." | Suggests the existence of a significant disparity in wealth within North Korea. |
| "Smuggling is rampant." | Highlights the limitations of North Korea's closed economy and the demand for goods from outside. |
The contrast between life in Changbai County and what I could see of Hyesan across the Yalu was striking. The sheer difference in the density of trees on the hillsides, the amount of visible light at night, and the apparent wealth of the buildings was visually startling.
Observations from the Border
Walking along the Yalu River, I could see the stark differences between the two countries. The Chinese side, lush with greenery, sharply contrasted with the sparser vegetation on the North Korean side. The buildings of Hyesan, while showing some new construction, were still significantly less developed and modern than those on the Chinese side. What I saw was a more primitive construction quality and a lack of vibrant lighting at night. The river itself, the Yalu, is a physical manifestation of the border, a boundary that, until very recently, was impassable.
I even spent time with a Changbai County resident who had spent 23 and a half days working in North Korea. He described their current living standards as being similar to those in China in the early 1980s, with a system of work points and rationed food. He spoke about wages being incredibly low even for those working in construction, with the majority going to the collective, leaving very little for the individual. This supports the idea that the country's wealth is concentrated in the hands of a few.
A Changing Landscape?
The COVID-19 pandemic brought border trade to a complete standstill. However, residents of Changbai County indicated that North Korea aims to reopen tourism in December 2024, hoping to revitalize its economy through Chinese tourists' spending. This could have significant implications for both sides of the Yalu River. The potential for growth and change is tantalizing.
Concluding Thoughts
My trip across the Yalu River to the border of North Korea challenged my preconceived notions. While the challenges facing North Korea are undeniable, the reality seems far more nuanced than the often-sensationalized media portrays. This experience provided a unique view into a mysterious land, highlighting the need to move beyond generalizations and seek firsthand experiences to cultivate a balanced understanding.
